The chimney framing has to be in the correct place.
In our case...we were about a foot out. The bricklayers just had to make the proper adjustment...
You want the chimney to clear the rafters or you have to cut away the roof truss. Which is not a good idea unless you are a roofing engineer
The bricklayers just adapted. They made a bend at the back.
Using a double skin brick for the fireplace walls is better than the single skin we used and will
give a more attractive fireplace. Strong enough to take the weight of the whole
And if you build the chimney in the middle of your house – and not on an outside wall - you save heat.
Get that chimney in the right place - first time. There are no second chances.
See how the chimney now passes between the rafters without any hint of a problem?
Later you may have to decide on
which wood burning stove you
will select - that's if you don't want an open fire.
We chose a 5kw wood burning stove to heat a four bedroom house. But we do need to give it a boost during the very cold weeks.
Before we leave the fireplace take a look at the brickwork. Choose bricks that are really colourful not the wall bricks which would give a very boring effect.
When the bricklayers finished the fireplace they
carried on up through the house with the chimney, going
between the rafters and out to the roof.
Now I've shown you how to build a chimney it’s time to build the chimney liner.
The Isokern flue system was supplied by a Norwich company and uses a
separate inner flue and outer case. The one I used combined the two in one
block. Pumice is volcanic and comes from Iceland. It's a very effective
insulation material and enables the flue temperature to rise rapidly.
Place two lintels to sit on the fireplace brickwork. Fix the support block on top of the lintels and then start building your liner. Just before going through the roof insert a corbel to support the brick cladding.
A concrete capping on the top protects the brickwork and helps to support the last flue block or chimney pot.